Here is a list of all the postings Paul Davey 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Display Album|
Just check any black card you use is acid-free and colour-fast. I would always use white for personal preference, but that's just me - each to their own!
|Thread: Grenada ID help|
Gibbons says that these stamps without the surcharge are revenue stamps. Barefoot's revenue catalogue lists this value (#4) but his listing of the THRFE variety is on the three half pence as is SG's. The 3d was not overprinted for postal use, Barefoot points out that there are many varieties of broken letters but only the THRFE variety on the 1 1/2d was due to the wrong letter being added, I looked at the scan carefully but it is impossible to tell, without a much more careful examination, it it is a broken E or a broken F. Certainly a collectible variety for the revenue collector though!
|Thread: Queen Victoria Line Engraved mystery!|
Hi Andy, a few observations. Firstly when & where? The postal markings are French, implying it is going abroad from the UK registered as the crown registration mark implies. However the overseas registration fee was 2s6d and in the late 1830s only one letter was registered in eighteen months! (See James Mackay “Registered Mail of the British Isles). In Jan 1841 you could actually send something abroad from places other than London or Edinburgh. This marking is recorded used from 1816 to 1832 by Barrie Jay in the county catalogue vol3.
In France 7 Sep 1841 Dijon to Seurre the next day. It would be interested to see the contents – a business letter in French? As it is addressed to Seurre and there is a firm's handstamp of the sender on the front I have to conclude the stamp and “British” marking have been added to a French entire. The cds for Folkingham (Lincolnshire) actually looks OK (can you read the date?). If such an item were genuine I would expect to see a London transit mark.
Then to the stamp. Whilst 2d blues can oxidise to a darker colour it does not (that I have seen) extend to black. Take a look against a strong light and check if it has a watermark. No watermark – fake. If it is watermarked then a clearer scan of the stamp (800dpi) would help and it could be plated (it'll only be 1 or 2 after all).
It is certainly a fun item.
Edited By Paul Davey 1 on 02/12/2019 22:06:51
|Thread: How times have changed !|
I think it will easily take many lifetimes to collect the stamps already issued. If there are no new ones then there's a limit! After all there have been no new "old masters" for a few centuries but there are still collectors! We will run out of philatelists before we run out of stamps.
The GB QV group on Facebook thrives - nothing newly issued there.
|Thread: Is a certified 3rd party grading company trust worthy?......|
There are quite a few reputable organisations who will issue certificates of their opinion of authenticity. In some ways it depends what stamps you mean. If US stamps and you are US based, the American Philatelic Society are worth investigating. In the UK, the Expert Committee of the Royal Philatelic Society would be my choice. In Europe each country has its own committee or individual experts. If any of them damaged the stamps sent them or items went missing they wouldn't keep doing it for long! The Royal have been in the game since the 19th century.
Grading condition is really a US thing. After all if it is high end enough, the condition grade will be related to other known examples of the same stamp. The worlds "most valuable stamp" is cut to shape, dirty and looks like a "second". Since it is the only one and has the provenance, $9M when it last sold from the DuPont collection!
Don't forget there is a charge for a good certificate based, often on catalogue price or market value. If you have many very valuable stamps you might want to consider this.
|Thread: CREAM Vs WHITE|
They must have read your comments Fred!
It is a closed group (now called a private group as of today!) with the following comments:
It is a private group. Just like before, only members can see that you're a member and what you post.
The group is visible in search and other places. Just like before, anyone can find it and ask to join.
So you only need to request to join, not give lots of personal details. I admit it assumes you are a facebook member of course!
I don't belong to the Wilding group, but I do to QV stamps, Postmarks, Rare GB Stamps & one other. A few have become full of people trying to sell stuff, but if the moderators do their job these are soon deleted and the posters kicked out - much the same as here.
The link is: **LINK**
I notice there is a British Wilding Stamps group on Facebook. It has 328 members and an average 3 posts a week. You may find more information and responses there to supplement any you get here
|Thread: Ultra violet radiation of multiple crown Wilding definitives.|
Fred - since nobody has posted that seems a great assumption on your part. Have you read the introduction and article? Try the local library for the cost of an inter-library loan.
I have not read the introduction to the part 3 and compared it with the previous edition. I don't collect Wildings. I spoke to the guy who wrote it however when I pointed out to him your postings here to ask his opinion. I am not posting his name here since that is his option and you do seem quite aggressive to people with a different opinion.
The article I mentioned is in volume 55 no 7 of PB (per Google). I suggest reading it. It maybe a good place to publish your work Fred.
Sorry for the delay Fred - on holiday. One of the authors - see also an article on this subject in Philatelic Bulletin about a year ago (I don't take PB so I can't give further details - think it covered the 3d value though).
Fred - I learn that the introductory section to the Wildings in SG specialised vol3 (2019) has been rewritten to discuss this subject. Have you seen it yet?
|Thread: Penny Black Help|
as mentioned before, please include a scanned image. To plate imperf line engraved one needs to be able to measure the position of the letters in the squares and this can only be done using a plastic gauge on the stamp itself or a flat, image scanned at 600dpi or more. Blacks have fewer options but your image is not sufficient I'm afraid. See co.uk/wiki/GB_1d_Red_Die_I_GG >**LINK**
Look in your local library for a recent SG Commonwealth catalogue. No point buying one if you are not going to collect. You could decide to do that of course! There are a number of threads on here about selling if that is your plan.
For 1d blacks we need to see more detail than a phone image shows. I thoroughly recommend a scanner which gets a clear image, flat and unshaded, with , usually, reproducible colours. From the picture you posted I would want to see better. Is it unused or is there a postmark. This is the most significant question. Looks to have four clear margins, but does it appear thinned anywhere when you hold it to the light? It should show a watermark but otherwise be even. I look forward to seeing a better image!
We are pretty helpful on here (I think) but not always the fastest to reply!
|Thread: Penny red help please|
Just to answer a few questions posed above:
Posts here are for all to read and comment on, the more the merrier. This moderator is a collector and not associated with the sites owner, Stamp Magazine. I responded to a request for help from Julia, the editor in days gone by, when the Magazine threatened to close it. Since I work instant replies are not always possible!
Regarding the original question from Trevor, I posed it to an expert who came back with:
You can see the Williams line on PE clearly so die II. Perf 16 so they must be C4 from plate 3 (=SG21). Also PE plate 3 is a constant variety. A different punch was used for the E which is larger than the other E's on the plate.
The books by Roland-Brown you mention Fred, only cover die I.
|Thread: Should these stamps be listed ?|
Collected - yes, listed - no
Fred - my point exactly! - if you can't get a block it is not a separate stamp listing but a variety. Comb perfs puncture three sides of the stamp in one go. so if the next use of the comb is higher than it should be then a short stamp results. Too low and it's a tall stamp. Doesn't have to be the A row, could be any row in principle.
It is both a variety and a novelty but this is not a qualification for a catalogue listing IMHO. I quite like them and will pick up examples when I see them if they look pretty, particularly on cover.
Doctor blade flaws, shifted colours etc in the modern era are also not listed (unless so shifted they are missing!) should these be too?
Perhaps we can only agree that the difference in approach to such things is what makes it a great hobby!
Show me a vertical block of short stamps & I'll back any call for them to be listed! I still say it's a shifted comb.
T'is true but how much do you need it to be different, 1mm, 2mm more? Also it is clear in the introduction to the SG GB concise for example, "Varieties of double, misplaced or partial perforation caused by error or machine malfunction are not listable, neither are freaks, such as perforations placed diagonally from paper folds, nor missing holes caused by broken pins". Clearly misplaced combs are not listable by SG. All is clear!
Other cataloguers may have different views though. I believe Michel, Yvert and Scott don't list them either. I may be wrong on that, haven't checked.
The responsibility of a commercial catalogue in my view is to their owners (to increase their sales of stamps and catalogues) and to give their customers something they want to buy. This is why there are several levels of complexity in the GB listings from SOTW through Collect British Stamps, GB concise to the specialised volumes. Even these do not list everything and handbooks are needed. An example would be the 18 (or more?) volumes on the 1d & 2d line engraved by Ken Statham.
That said it is up to each collector to decide what they want to collect and how!
these were comb perforated and the combs were adjusted after each horizontal row so tall and short stamps could occur if the adjustment was not accurate.
The problem for a catalogue editor is that the value depends on how visually appealing it is. The better looking the more expensive. All the editor could do is list it as "from....."
Also these 1d stars are reasonably well collected and the specialist would like to be able to plate them. If you can't read the corner letters this becomes much more challenging. Of course it gives more value to multiples showing such varieties!
I can understand both points of view - list or not - but I err on the side of don't list I'm afraid.
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